Sunday, November 27th
Today would have been my Dad's 90th birthday. He was born on May 23rd, 1927. It's hard to imagine him as a 90 year old but I wish I had the chance. He died 25 years ago.
I love him and miss him!
Sunday, November 27, 2016
Thursday, November 24, 2016
Sevilla, Granda and Córdoba (Part Three - 11.24 and 25) Saturday, November 19th to Friday, November 25th
Thursday, November 24th - Thanksgiving Day!
Happy (belated) Thanksgiving to all!
Today we left Granada and via the bus made our way to Córdoba. It was a beautiful scenic drive through rolling hills covered with old olive trees and dotted with white hill towns. We went to our hotel Las Casas de la Juderia, in the historic old town.
This is a photo of the outside of the Mezquita on our way to lunch. It was a beautiful and bight sunny day!
For lunch we had middle eastern/Moroccan food at Bocaito Andalusi, it is a tiny place but good food.
We enjoyed walking around the city to get our bearings. On the way back we walked along the Guadalquivir River. The Guadalquivir is among the longest rivers in Spain and it has several distinctive characteristics. Its natural environment is one of the richest and most varied areas of plants, birds and animals.
The Roman bridge of Córdoba
The Bell Tower/Minaret just outside the Mezquita
We then entered the Mezquita (The Mosque-Cathedral). What a unique and amazing place.
Inside the Mezquita you are blown away by the beauty. There are more then 800 red and blue columns are topped with double arches. The archways appear to go on forever.
The Mihrab, is the mosque equivalent of a Jewish temple's Aron Kodesh (Torah Ark) or a church's high alter.
Imagine, the original mosque at prayer time, with dirt floors covered by many different large carpets with more than 20,000 people praying at once....saying "Allahu Akbar, la illa a il Allah, Muhammad razul Allah" "Allah is great, there is no god but to Allah, and Muhammad is his prophet"
The dome inside the Mihrab is also quite amazing.
Now picture rising up in the middle of the forest of columns is the bright and newly restored cathedral.....what a statement the Christians made building this cathedral in the middle of the mosque. Get this, while the mosque is about 30 feet high, the cathedral's space soars 130 feet up! It's an amazing juxtaposition between the simple beauty of repeated architectural elements and highly decorated grandeur. in prefer the former.
Check out this organ
We then walked over to the Alcázar (Castle of the Christian Monarchs). It was one of the primary residences of Isabella I and Ferdinand II of Aragon. They donated the castle to the Inquisition of 1482, and it became central in the church's effort to discover "false converts to Christianity" - mostly Jews who had decided not to flee Spain in 1492.
The Alcázar has beautiful gardens with pools and a couple of towers
Christian Kings in the Alcázar and ever present water features.
As you enter and exit you see the statue of King Alfonso X of Castile, known as "The Wise"....his eyes seem to be staring!
Once we finished we went back to our hotel got into our room and relaxed before our Thanksgiving dinner!
We had a reservation at ReComiendo (Their mission state is "A Place where food will make you smile and Enjoy Equally" we were NOT disappointed. We chose the 12 course meal to replicate what Thanksgiving feels like at home.....eat a lot of good food!
Check out some of our courses:
When each of our courses was brought out the Chef Periko Ortega, would explain what it was and how to eat it.
We started with snacks of plantains and tortilla chips with spiced mayonnaise. Then we had "Medicine" tomato emulsion with Bloody Mary spices as seen blow
The the "Wedding Plate" chips and nuts wrapped in edible cellophane
Then olive oil on a spoon, which on their web site they say "The trap is not everything it seems"
Then some baby shrimps served with cheese and nuts in a hand held cone.
Then my favorite "The Clothes Line" interesting twist on a caesar salad
Then "The Lollypops" cherry covered foie gras lollypops
BTW they paired wine with most of the dishes, 5 different types and the total cost was just 49 euros!!!
Next we had a typical Córdoba dish with egg, mushroom, popped quinoa and DRY POWERED OLIVE OIL, red wine caviar with smoked salmon.....first time I ever had "dry olive oil" it's the white puffy stuff on the top right
Then a mushroom dish with a poached egg and smoked eel.
Followed by a dish first served without the soup stock, which is poured in after it's served to you, it includes almonds, wine, prawns bacon and black garlic and traditional Córdoba soup.
Then Beth had cod on potato purée (I had calamari on creamed garlic) with FOAM....another first for us to eat FOAM!
This was followed by Iberian pork, under the shoulder, slow roasted for 18 hours......yummy!
Then desert started....deconstructed creme brülée with citrus caviar, brown sugar, lemon and rosemary ice cream.
Then this deconstructed cheesecake, raspberry sorbet and chocolate with crunches at the bottom
We forgot what this aperitif drink is but it too was great
We are Thankful on this Thanksgiving dinner!
Friday, November 25th
The last day of our trip and it's raining again!
We started at out at one of only 3 Medieval Jewish Synagogue's still existing in Spain today. This one in Córdoba and I heard the other 2 are in Toledo.
The Synagogue, situated in the heart of the Jewish Quarter of Córdoba, is unique in Andalusia and one of the best preserved Medieval Spanish synagogues. According to the inscriptions found in the building, it was built in 1314 and 1315, and was in constant use right up until the Jews were expelled from Spain. A small courtyard leads to a narrow entrance hall. On the right is a staircase leading up to the women's area and in front lies the main hall. The Jews were expelled in 1492, and afterward, the building was used first as a hospital, then as the Hermitage of San Crispin and finally, an infants school. It was declared a National Monument at the end of the 19th century.
This statue is of Moses Maimonides. He was born in Córdoba and raised on both Jewish scripture and the philosophy of Aristotle. He left his biggest mark as the author of "The Guide for the Perplexed", in which he asserted that secular knowledge and religious faith could go hand-in-hand.
Next we checked out the Museo Taurino Córdoba, about the history and traditions of bullfighting, actually quite interesting.
We then checked out the Julio Romero de Torres Museo. We loved his paintings.
Lastly we visited the Baños califales of Córdoba.
Then to the train station for our AVE train ride back to Valencia.
It is hard to describe in words or images what these three cities are like. We enjoyed our visit in spite of the rain. We would prefer to deal with rain verses the tremendous heat and tons of tourists these cities have in the summer.
Happy (belated) Thanksgiving to all!
Today we left Granada and via the bus made our way to Córdoba. It was a beautiful scenic drive through rolling hills covered with old olive trees and dotted with white hill towns. We went to our hotel Las Casas de la Juderia, in the historic old town.
This is a photo of the outside of the Mezquita on our way to lunch. It was a beautiful and bight sunny day!
For lunch we had middle eastern/Moroccan food at Bocaito Andalusi, it is a tiny place but good food.
We enjoyed walking around the city to get our bearings. On the way back we walked along the Guadalquivir River. The Guadalquivir is among the longest rivers in Spain and it has several distinctive characteristics. Its natural environment is one of the richest and most varied areas of plants, birds and animals.
The Roman bridge of Córdoba
The Albolafia Mill on the Guadalquivir!
This is is Plaza del Triunfo (Triumphal Arch). It is dedicated to the Archangel Raphael, the guardian angel of the city.
It is an unfinished Renaissance arch, which was designed to give King Phillp II a royal welcome, but he arrived before its completion so the job was cancelled!
Triumph of San Rafael of the Gate of the Bridge.
The Bell Tower/Minaret just outside the Mezquita
We then entered the Mezquita (The Mosque-Cathedral). What a unique and amazing place.
Inside the Mezquita you are blown away by the beauty. There are more then 800 red and blue columns are topped with double arches. The archways appear to go on forever.
The Mihrab, is the mosque equivalent of a Jewish temple's Aron Kodesh (Torah Ark) or a church's high alter.
Imagine, the original mosque at prayer time, with dirt floors covered by many different large carpets with more than 20,000 people praying at once....saying "Allahu Akbar, la illa a il Allah, Muhammad razul Allah" "Allah is great, there is no god but to Allah, and Muhammad is his prophet"
The dome inside the Mihrab is also quite amazing.
Check out this organ
We then walked over to the Alcázar (Castle of the Christian Monarchs). It was one of the primary residences of Isabella I and Ferdinand II of Aragon. They donated the castle to the Inquisition of 1482, and it became central in the church's effort to discover "false converts to Christianity" - mostly Jews who had decided not to flee Spain in 1492.
The Alcázar has beautiful gardens with pools and a couple of towers
Christian Kings in the Alcázar and ever present water features.
As you enter and exit you see the statue of King Alfonso X of Castile, known as "The Wise"....his eyes seem to be staring!
Once we finished we went back to our hotel got into our room and relaxed before our Thanksgiving dinner!
We had a reservation at ReComiendo (Their mission state is "A Place where food will make you smile and Enjoy Equally" we were NOT disappointed. We chose the 12 course meal to replicate what Thanksgiving feels like at home.....eat a lot of good food!
Check out some of our courses:
When each of our courses was brought out the Chef Periko Ortega, would explain what it was and how to eat it.
We started with snacks of plantains and tortilla chips with spiced mayonnaise. Then we had "Medicine" tomato emulsion with Bloody Mary spices as seen blow
The the "Wedding Plate" chips and nuts wrapped in edible cellophane
Then olive oil on a spoon, which on their web site they say "The trap is not everything it seems"
Then some baby shrimps served with cheese and nuts in a hand held cone.
Then my favorite "The Clothes Line" interesting twist on a caesar salad
Then "The Lollypops" cherry covered foie gras lollypops
BTW they paired wine with most of the dishes, 5 different types and the total cost was just 49 euros!!!
Next we had a typical Córdoba dish with egg, mushroom, popped quinoa and DRY POWERED OLIVE OIL, red wine caviar with smoked salmon.....first time I ever had "dry olive oil" it's the white puffy stuff on the top right
Then a mushroom dish with a poached egg and smoked eel.
Followed by a dish first served without the soup stock, which is poured in after it's served to you, it includes almonds, wine, prawns bacon and black garlic and traditional Córdoba soup.
Then Beth had cod on potato purée (I had calamari on creamed garlic) with FOAM....another first for us to eat FOAM!
This was followed by Iberian pork, under the shoulder, slow roasted for 18 hours......yummy!
Then desert started....deconstructed creme brülée with citrus caviar, brown sugar, lemon and rosemary ice cream.
Then this deconstructed cheesecake, raspberry sorbet and chocolate with crunches at the bottom
We forgot what this aperitif drink is but it too was great
We are Thankful on this Thanksgiving dinner!
Friday, November 25th
The last day of our trip and it's raining again!
We started at out at one of only 3 Medieval Jewish Synagogue's still existing in Spain today. This one in Córdoba and I heard the other 2 are in Toledo.
The Synagogue, situated in the heart of the Jewish Quarter of Córdoba, is unique in Andalusia and one of the best preserved Medieval Spanish synagogues. According to the inscriptions found in the building, it was built in 1314 and 1315, and was in constant use right up until the Jews were expelled from Spain. A small courtyard leads to a narrow entrance hall. On the right is a staircase leading up to the women's area and in front lies the main hall. The Jews were expelled in 1492, and afterward, the building was used first as a hospital, then as the Hermitage of San Crispin and finally, an infants school. It was declared a National Monument at the end of the 19th century.
This statue is of Moses Maimonides. He was born in Córdoba and raised on both Jewish scripture and the philosophy of Aristotle. He left his biggest mark as the author of "The Guide for the Perplexed", in which he asserted that secular knowledge and religious faith could go hand-in-hand.
Next we checked out the Museo Taurino Córdoba, about the history and traditions of bullfighting, actually quite interesting.
We then checked out the Julio Romero de Torres Museo. We loved his paintings.
Lastly we visited the Baños califales of Córdoba.
Then to the train station for our AVE train ride back to Valencia.
It is hard to describe in words or images what these three cities are like. We enjoyed our visit in spite of the rain. We would prefer to deal with rain verses the tremendous heat and tons of tourists these cities have in the summer.
Monday, November 21, 2016
Sevilla, Granda (Part Two 11.21-23) and Córdoba - Saturday, November 19th to Friday, November 25th
An early departure to Granada 8:15 am to arrive at 11:15 am with the International Gang from Valencia led by our intrepid leader, Daniel.
Daniel, Aida and Blair are only spending one night and we are staying 3 nights. Therefore we chose to stay in a hotel (Hotel Casa 1800) verses the AirBnB they are in. It is a very nice and small (14 rooms) hotel.
After we each checked into our places we met for lunch at Bar Los Diamantes (The Diamonds), we met at the one on Plaza Nueva, near our hotel. I loved it, calamari, fried fish, etc. all fresh and served hot, it was perfect.
However our wonderful lunch delayed our visit to the Alhambra. When we did arrive the rain POURED on us, just as we were finishing these Gardens. It's hard to tell how hard it was raining looking at these photos but we persevered with a ticket for only this day at this time.
It's on a high point looking out over Granada... steep hills above a river make it a stronghold location. No wonder it was a power seat for so long.
The Alhambra is the last and probably the greatest Morrish palace. Nowhere else does the splendor of Moorish civilization shine so beautifully.
From the Alhambra gardens we made our way to the Palacio de Generalife (Architect's Garden)
Here is a quote from the Qurán I found in Rick Steves Spain guide about these gardens:
"Surely Allah will make those who believe and do good deeds enter gardens beneath which rivers flow; they shall be adorned therein with bracelets of gold and pearls, and their garments shall be of silk. (Qurán 22.23)
This staircase is called the Escalera del Agua, whose banisters double as little water canals.
By the time we left this area I was totally soaked, even with a rain coat and umbrella!
As we continued to walk the grounds we found a dry place to spend a few minutes in the El Bañuelo (Arabic baths)
We had a "scheduled time" to enter the Palacios Nazaríes so we had time to appreciate Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace). It's very cool that Charles V liked the Palacios Nazaríes so much that he lived in it even though it was Moorish. Of course, he had to display his power through architecture so he built Charles V Palace for public meetings and ocassions. The palace is 17 meters (56 feet) high and 63 meters (207 feet) square containing an inner circular patio. The building is considered avant-garde of its time.
Can you see the rain in this photo of Charles V Palace?
We are excited to visit the highlight of the Alhambra, Palacios de Nazaríes (complex of palaces which were the residence of the Kings of Granada).
It is hard to describe how beautiful and intricate the design is (it's rumored that "Allah" is engraved throughout the palace over 30,000 times. We counted only a few. A few of my favorite images of the decor:
These photo's are of the Patio de Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles)
Next we went into the Gran Salon de los Embajadores (Hall of Ambassadors). This is the most majestic palace hall, where the throne was and official receptions were held here.
From here we walked through the Patio de los Leones (Courtyard of the Lions). While it was under construction it we could still see the 12 marble lions, from the 14th century.
By now it the sun was just starting to set. We needed to find our way to the exits and head home.
What a place, what an experience. I can't believe I don't remember it more from my visit in 1980!
Given the rain, none of us wanted to go out so we went over to Daniel, Aida and Blair's AirBnB for a home cooking. Aida had a pasta dish in mind, we shopped, drank and ate and all had a good time on our last night together. They are leaving in the morning to go to Córdoba for the afternoon before taking the train back to Valencia tomorrow night.
Tuesday, November 22
Since we've been on the move for the past few day, and more rain we decided to take it easy today....sleep in a bit, enjoy a leisurely breakfast and walk around Granada's Old Town which is close to our hotel.
We first visited the Corral del Carbón. "A caravanserai, which was a protected place for merchants to rest their camels, spend the night, get a bit to eat, and spin yarns. This, the only surviving caravanserai of Granada's original 14, was just a block away from the silk market." "a common mistake to think of the Muslim Moors as somehow NOT Spanish. They lived here for seven centuries and were really just as "indigenous" as the Romans, Goths and Celts. While the Moors were Muslim, they were no more connected to Arabia than they were to France."
As I mentioned it's just one block away to the old Alcaiceria (Silk Market). Today it is a souk or market.
We then we saw this image of Isabella and Ferdinand that I kinda liked!
From here we walked through the Jewish Quarter. We visited the Centro de la Mémoria Sefardi located in the Realejo neighborhood. This home preserves the memory of Granada's Jewish history, from the time of the Taifas. In 1031 the Iberian Muslim caliphate broke apart, and many smaller Moorish kingdoms were established, one of them was Granada. With Granada now the capital of its own kingdom, its Jewish community grew. Amazingly, a Jew - Shemuel Hanagid became its vizier and military commander.
One of the places people used to go to get water on Calle Agua. Imagine climbing up and down the hills of Granada to get water home. I bet the Albayzin residents were glad to get plumbing!
Daniel, Aida and Blair are only spending one night and we are staying 3 nights. Therefore we chose to stay in a hotel (Hotel Casa 1800) verses the AirBnB they are in. It is a very nice and small (14 rooms) hotel.
After we each checked into our places we met for lunch at Bar Los Diamantes (The Diamonds), we met at the one on Plaza Nueva, near our hotel. I loved it, calamari, fried fish, etc. all fresh and served hot, it was perfect.
However our wonderful lunch delayed our visit to the Alhambra. When we did arrive the rain POURED on us, just as we were finishing these Gardens. It's hard to tell how hard it was raining looking at these photos but we persevered with a ticket for only this day at this time.
It's on a high point looking out over Granada... steep hills above a river make it a stronghold location. No wonder it was a power seat for so long.
The Alhambra is the last and probably the greatest Morrish palace. Nowhere else does the splendor of Moorish civilization shine so beautifully.
From the Alhambra gardens we made our way to the Palacio de Generalife (Architect's Garden)
Here is a quote from the Qurán I found in Rick Steves Spain guide about these gardens:
"Surely Allah will make those who believe and do good deeds enter gardens beneath which rivers flow; they shall be adorned therein with bracelets of gold and pearls, and their garments shall be of silk. (Qurán 22.23)
This staircase is called the Escalera del Agua, whose banisters double as little water canals.
By the time we left this area I was totally soaked, even with a rain coat and umbrella!
As we continued to walk the grounds we found a dry place to spend a few minutes in the El Bañuelo (Arabic baths)
We had a "scheduled time" to enter the Palacios Nazaríes so we had time to appreciate Palacio Carlos V (Charles V Palace). It's very cool that Charles V liked the Palacios Nazaríes so much that he lived in it even though it was Moorish. Of course, he had to display his power through architecture so he built Charles V Palace for public meetings and ocassions. The palace is 17 meters (56 feet) high and 63 meters (207 feet) square containing an inner circular patio. The building is considered avant-garde of its time.
We are excited to visit the highlight of the Alhambra, Palacios de Nazaríes (complex of palaces which were the residence of the Kings of Granada).
It is hard to describe how beautiful and intricate the design is (it's rumored that "Allah" is engraved throughout the palace over 30,000 times. We counted only a few. A few of my favorite images of the decor:
These photo's are of the Patio de Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles)
Next we went into the Gran Salon de los Embajadores (Hall of Ambassadors). This is the most majestic palace hall, where the throne was and official receptions were held here.
From here we walked through the Patio de los Leones (Courtyard of the Lions). While it was under construction it we could still see the 12 marble lions, from the 14th century.
What a place, what an experience. I can't believe I don't remember it more from my visit in 1980!
Given the rain, none of us wanted to go out so we went over to Daniel, Aida and Blair's AirBnB for a home cooking. Aida had a pasta dish in mind, we shopped, drank and ate and all had a good time on our last night together. They are leaving in the morning to go to Córdoba for the afternoon before taking the train back to Valencia tomorrow night.
Tuesday, November 22
Since we've been on the move for the past few day, and more rain we decided to take it easy today....sleep in a bit, enjoy a leisurely breakfast and walk around Granada's Old Town which is close to our hotel.
We first visited the Corral del Carbón. "A caravanserai, which was a protected place for merchants to rest their camels, spend the night, get a bit to eat, and spin yarns. This, the only surviving caravanserai of Granada's original 14, was just a block away from the silk market." "a common mistake to think of the Muslim Moors as somehow NOT Spanish. They lived here for seven centuries and were really just as "indigenous" as the Romans, Goths and Celts. While the Moors were Muslim, they were no more connected to Arabia than they were to France."
As I mentioned it's just one block away to the old Alcaiceria (Silk Market). Today it is a souk or market.
We then we saw this image of Isabella and Ferdinand that I kinda liked!
From here we walked through the Jewish Quarter. We visited the Centro de la Mémoria Sefardi located in the Realejo neighborhood. This home preserves the memory of Granada's Jewish history, from the time of the Taifas. In 1031 the Iberian Muslim caliphate broke apart, and many smaller Moorish kingdoms were established, one of them was Granada. With Granada now the capital of its own kingdom, its Jewish community grew. Amazingly, a Jew - Shemuel Hanagid became its vizier and military commander.
This statue is to celebrate one of Granada's medieval Jewish celebrities Judah ben Saul ibn Tibbon in the Jewish quarter. He had to flee Granada in 1148, however he successfully made his way to Provence. There he and his descendants played an important role in translating many Jewish Arabic texts into Hebrew so that Jews could continue to study them.
After lunch and some time relaxing in our room we had scheduled to experience the Baños Árabes (Arab Baths) in a place called Hamman Baths.....it was fantastic!
Later, just after sunset we decided to take a walk up the Paseo de los Tristes (Walk of the Sad Ones). It was quite beautiful and has incredible views of the Alhambra. Yet at one time it was the route of funeral processions to the cemetery at the edge of town.
Statue of Mario Maya one of Spain's most innovative and influential flamenco dancers....on the Paseo de los Tristes
One of the places people used to go to get water on Calle Agua. Imagine climbing up and down the hills of Granada to get water home. I bet the Albayzin residents were glad to get plumbing!
We ended our walk by visiting the overlook called the Mirador San Nicolas, just amazing views of the Alhambra.
For dinner we also were fortunate to spend our dinner together looking at the Alhambra from the Estrellas de San Nicolas, it is quite magical all lit up at night. For a couple of days, Beth had been craving French Onion Soup - and it was on the menu. Score.
Another amazing day in Granda.
Wednesday, November 23
Our last day in Granada. We decided that we would walk up Paseo de los Tristes and through the Albayzin. On our previous walk I saw a historical marker for the what is considered the oldest and and best preserved public bath house in Spain, El Bañuelo. Today we stopped and bought a Dobla de Oro ticket which allowed us to see other houses throughout the Albayzin. Here are images of the El Bañuelo.
We then visited the Casa Horno de Oro
And the Casa de Zafra
Next we saw the Palacio de Dar Al-Horra.
From here we visited the Casa del Chapiz (below), which has been declared of Cultural Interest. It is a large Moorish house that since 1932 the State has used as the School of Arab Studies. It is made up of two 16th century Arab houses. They belong to the moriscos Hernán Lopes el Feri and Lorenzo el Chapiz. It is considered the largest and most famous Moorish house in Granada. Pieces of Mudejar art can be found inside
From here we started our walk up to the Sacromonte, the area of Granda where gypsies live/ed and is quite famous for Flamenco music and dancing. As you can see Beth had both her polka dot rain coat and an umbrella to try and stay dry.
Scaromonte is dotted with cave dwellings that have been the homes of the Roma or gypsy community for centuries. We had a drink in one of the cave bars but skipped the touristy Flamenco shows.
We both agreed that we liked the Granda more than Seville. It's is smaller about 300,000 vs 800,000. It is a town with a lot of college students from all over the world who go to the University of Granada, even our brother-in-law from California went to school here a number of years ago. With it's Muslim area, Roma area, and just a bit of Jewish history still alive, in addition to of course the amazing Alhambra it's quite a place.
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