Enjoying Valencia! - Sunday, January 29th to Saturday, February 4th

Sunday, January 29th, 2017
Today, it was a beautiful sunny day so we took a walk over to see the Falles Museum.  The Falles festival, originated in Valencia.  I can not wait for it, as it is happening from March 15th to the 19th, and it is out of this world!  

Falles is a traditional celebration held in commemoration of Saint Joseph.  The term Falles refers to both the celebration and the monuments burnt during the celebration. The Falles festival was recently added to UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage of humanity list on November 30, 2016. 

There are different thoughts about the origin.  One suggests that they started in the Middle Ages, when artisan disposed of the broken artifact and pieces of wood they saved during the winter by burning them to celebrate the spring equinox.  Valencian carpenters used planks of wood called parots to hang their candles on during the winter, as these were needed to provide light to work by.  With the coming of spring, they were no longer needed and so they were burned.  Over time, and with the intervention of the Church, the date of the burning of these parots was arranged to coincide with the celebration of the festival of Saint Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters.

There are only a few small Falles, called ninots (a figure with a human representation) that get "pardoned" (by popular vote) from being burned and they go into this museum.  

BTW when we went to pay our entrance fee, we forgot that on Sunday's the museums are FREE!

Here are a few of my favorites.

Da man, fishing for dollars!

The 60's flower power? Or what do you think?

Monday, January 30th

It is always nice to get back into a routine.  This week we went back to Spanish school.  However we are trying a new school, it is called Understand Valencia.

We met with the the previous week and Stella and she spoke with us to get a feel for our spanish.  We both then attended an A1+ class last Thursday.  Afterwards she felt as though it would be best that I stay in the A1+ and Beth attend the A2 class.  Therefore we go to class on different days.  Beth started today and goes on Monday's and Wednesday's and I go Tuesday's and Thursday's.  We like this school because it is not ONLY grammar.  Of course they must teach grammar but they practice more talking than our previous school.

We also started back at the gym this week.  Beth joined a new one, quite cutting edge and upscale near our school called Tyris Spa and I returned to Personal Gim, near our apartment. 

Friday, February 3rd
We knew today was going to warm, 21 (about 70) and Beth wanted to check out a terrace restaurant called Petit Bistró Terrace, in the Cathedral Suites Hotel.   We invite our friends Chiara (Italy), Dale (England),  Eddie and Heather (San Jose, CA), Celine and Jean (Canada) to join us.  It was wonderful, the view of the cathedral was fantastic, the food excellent and the company great....another wonderful day in Valencia.

Saturday, February 4th
Another warm day 21, we are enjoying it as the middle of next week and next weekend is going to get colder 15 (59) and rain.

We walked over to Ruzafa as there was a traditional market happening today.  We bought some honey, cheese and a few small gifts and just enjoyed the "scene".  We loved seeing this man manually pedadling kids around on a merry-go-round

After enjoying the market we went over to a vegetarian restaurant called Copenhagen.  We loved eating outside and had an excellent salad, hummus, mini veggie burgers.

We have experience a number of bachelorette parties during our time in Valencia.  They typically are on Saturdays and many, like this on our street Isabel la Catolica have marching band!

Tonight, starting at 10:00pm we joined a group of about 12 people to see a group called Orjazzmic play at No Hay Nada Mejor Que 27 Amigos (There is nothing better than 27 friends).  

Here is a short video, in the club, of them playing Chan Chan from Buena Vista Social Club.

The band was fantastic, check out this YouTube video where they are playing "Ain't No Sunshine" 

Sex in the City (Valencia) Tour and more - Saturday, January 28, 2017

Saturday, January 28th, 2017

Just as a footnote before I start talking about our tour.........

During our first week in Spain, while looking for a place to live we spent one day driving south to Javea. On the drive back while heading North from Javea back to Valencia (about 80km) is a coastal road between Denia and Oliva which is a nondescript piece of road.  Flat, straight, fairly busy with traffic, and thick on both sides with orchards and orange trees.  At regular intervals along the road the small lanes disappear into the orchards.  At the entrance of each of these lanes stood young women, in various states of undress.  Some were standing, others had a chair, most were smoking, some seemed to be listening to their iPods or reading a book.....I was surprised when I first noticed them but I figured and learned later that they are ALL "working women".  

So we (22 of us) met our tour guide at the La Lonja (Silk Exchange) to start our "Sex in the City" tour.  He told us the following:

"In Christian Spain, Valencia seems to have been the first city to regulate prostitution.  The first documents date from 1311, pimps and procuresses were ordered to leave town because procuring was punished more harshly then prostitution.  The first statues of the public brothel (mancebía) in Valencia, date from 1325, when King Jaume II at the urge of alderman and magistrates (jurats) established a large "red-light" district (poble) comprising several streets.  Harlots. be they public or secret women, were ordered to live their or face expulsion from town.  

Here is a map of "old town' Valencia.  The "red-light" district was from Calle Padre Huerfanos (left of the Torres de Sorranos) continuing left on Calle Blanquerias and then left onto Calle Corona (just before the Torres de Quart) turning left on Calle Baja which runs into Calle Padre Huerfanos.

Jews and Muslims faced the death penalty if they laid with Christian women, prostitutes or not. Their visits to municipal brothels seems to have been rare because prostitutes and brothel-keepers faced the same death penalty if non-christians were found frequenting prostitutes"

"The first house of repentant prostitutes (casa de las arrepentidas) was founded in Valencia in 1345.  The founder was a women named Na Soriana, who belonged to the Order of Tertiary Sisters of St. Francis.  

During the month of Easter - or perhaps the period of Lent (our guide's English wasn't that good and well our Spanish just ain't there yet), the prostitutes were all sent to convents to live and repent.  Retired prostitutes also went to live in convents.  This and the fact that many families sent daughters they couldn't afford to raise to convents meant that convents were not the pious places we think they are.

All of the following are in public view on the outside walls of the La Lonja!

THREE NUDES BEATING EACH OTHER WITH BROOMS
On the outside walls of the La Lonja, in what is known as the "porch of sins", in the sight of the Virgin Mary and with the child Jesus we saw this scene of three completely naked people who seem to be hitting each other with brooms.  We know that witchcraft was persecuted at the time however it sure seems like they are involved in some type of sexual ritual.

On the same "porch of sins" is a beast doing what some men wish they could do.

Also for some unknown reason a man is doing a tree?

MAN FORNICATES WITH WALL
In the Middle ages, lust was perhaps the most punished capital sin. At the time of building the La Lonja prostitution was rooted in the population of Valencia and thus seems to be why many statues and gargoyles imagery are on the walls of the La Lonja.  In this statue on the main facade is a man fornicating with his own building, the most important civic building in the city.  Maybe it was his way to F-you to the city?

NUDE WOMEN TOUCHES HER GENITALS
Once again we see lust.  A completely naked women who touches herself with both hands.  While it lacks sensuality and eroticism is does recreate the act (sinful according to the morality of the time) of masturbation.  It might be the most recognized and surprising figures, at first glance, on the Silk Market. 

IS THIS ANGEL DOING WHAT I THINK HE IS DOING?
This is one of the strangest gargoyles on the walls of the Silk Market, which happens to face the Central Market.  An Angel takes his penis and directs it into a vase, which he is holding with his other hand.  This is yet another of these figures laden with obscenity which look at the street below.  Many people who happen to notice these stand and wonder, what the heck is the meaning?

We then walked from the La Lonja to the St. Nicolas church.  Here he told this story. Supposedly, Nicolas was born to a wealthy family in Patara, Lycia, Turkey.  His parents died, and he inherited a considerable sum of money, but he kept none of it.  In the most famous story about his life, is that he saw a man who was so poor he had to put his three daughters into prostitution.  St. Nicolas decided to give them some gold coins and threw them down the chimneys to help keep them out of prostitution.....and they were caught in stockings drying in the fireplaces.  Hmmm the start of the  Christmas tradition of hanging stockings!  Apparently he is also known to have been the patron saint to bank managers, prostitutes and sailors.

We then walked to Casa Natal of the aristocrat Bienvenida "Lady Buck" Perez.  She has quite a history, read her story. At this location plaque was placed on the wall and it became the "Ruta por le Valencia Erotica".

While walking around, one the the friends we've meet, who organized this tour, Jean (John) posed in front of these car bumpers. Beth turned her back on this photo. ( Not really - she was ahead of the crowd)

Then we walked over to Borges street named after a Spanish Pope Alexander VI born Roderic Borgia, who was controversial because he acknowledged fathering several children by his mistress. 

While discussing other topics the guide gave us the "Casa York - Gomas Higiénicas de las mejores marcas extraneras" information about the old condoms.  They were designed to be washed and reused.  Early recycling? 

We saw some graffiti on the walk in the Barrio del Carmen

From here we walked to the Generalitat Valencia it is a government building.  This image is on the outside of that building

Next on the tour was the outside of the Valencia Cathedral

While all of this erotica may seem to indicate a lascivious Valencia, history suggests that since people couldn't read, they put sculptures outside of building to let everyone know what was sinful.   The inside of the buildings do not contain such carvings.  

Last we saw an image I have posted before. But I found out that she is a famous cabaret entertainer Rosita Amores.

Enjoy the short video of her singing Valencian!

We stopped in at the Cafe de las Horas, pre-lunch.  We played a game of Sex In the City...our team won a bottle of Cava!

After our two hour tour 14 of us had lunch at Saona - Plaza de la Virgen.

After we finished lunch, at 4:30 we went over for an evening of Spanish Wine Tasting from Winery Denébola at Innóvateya with another group of about 35 people.  I do love Spanish wine!

Another fantastic day and night, I love how the fountain in Plaza Ayuntamiento looks at night, different colors of the water!

Holocaust Remembrance Day - Friday, January 27, 2017

Friday, January 27, 2017

Today is Holocaust Remembrance Day.  I looked for, but could not find any events to attend here in Valencia.  In this link it says about Spain that:

"The perception of the Holocaust in Spain is still generally limited to a very basic knowledge.  The main reason for this is that Spain did not directly take part in World War II and that it was overwhelmed by its own history, so the population used to perceive no connection with the events of the Holocaust"

Given what "the person who shall not be named" has done in his first week as POTUS I think this Remembrance Day is even more important today, if that is possible.  

BTW, if you have not read the statements Steven Goldstein, The Executive Director of the Anne Frank Center for Mutual Respect, wrote on Facebook about "him" have a read.

On January 22nd, Pope Francis had an interview with the Spanish newspaper El Pais.  This link is the entire interview.  Among other topics he "warned against populism, saying it could lead to the election of "saviours" like Adolf Hitler.  He also condemned the idea of using wall and barbed wire to keep out foreigners, among them refugees and migrants. "Of course, crises provoke fears and worries.  The example of populism in the European sense of the word is Germany in 1933".  He added "Germany....was looking for a leader, someone who would give her back her identity and that was a little man named Adolf Hitler, who said 'I can do it'"  "Hitler did not steal power"  "He was elected by his people and then he destroyed his people".  The Germans at that time also wanted to protect themselves with "walls and barbed wire so others cannot take away their identity".  "The case of Germany is classic" he said adding that Hitler gave them a "deformed identity and we know what it produce"

The World Jewish Congress started a social media campaign to raise awareness they asked people all over the world to post pictures of themselves on Facebook and Twitter with "We Remember"  This is an article from the Jerusalem Post about the campaign and other information.

When I was searching the Internet for information I came across this British newspaper "The Sun" article with photos so we can all Remember this day.

WE MUST ALL REMEMBER 

WE MUST ALL SPEAK UP

WE MUST NOT NOW, 
NOT EVER, ALLOW THIS TO HAPPEN AGAIN!!!

Ernest Hemingway in Valencia

Thursday, January 26th

I did not know any of this about Ernest Hemingway.  

"Valencia appears often in his work; "the city is referred to, one way or another, in seven of his novels including" "For Whom The Bell Tolls" and "Death in the Afternoon".  When he was staying in a hotel in Valencia he started writing his first novel "The Sun Also Rises".

The photo's and article in this link says that when he "arrived in the Estación del Norte (North Train Station) he immediately fell in love with the city.  If the stations colorful ceramic tiles and Modernistic architecture impressed him, what really swung it was the huge bullring, which was the first thing he saw when he came out onto the street"

Everyone who has visited we have walked with down Colón street past the Plaza de Toros de Valencia (bullring) and into the Estación del Norte.  We think they too have all loved it!  

Hemingway's favorite place in Valencia, after the bullring, was "Restaurante La Pepica" at Playa de las Arenas.

As for eating at Restaurante La Pepica we have had a meals with Claudia & Morry and Myra & Richard there.

It is hard to imagine that we only have 2 months left.  We booked roundtrip flights recently, it was less expensive than a one way ticket.  We return home on March 30th and I believe our return flight is October 22nd. 

We will have had 18 family and friends who stayed with us during our 11 months here.  It amounts to about 8 weeks of hosting.  Add to about 5 weeks of traveling in Spain, Italy and München.  It's no wonder the time has flown by.  In retrospect we wish we would have arranged our lives so we could have stayed 18 months or maybe even 2 years.  We just didn't know then what we know now. But we do have a return ticket.  I plan to renew our Resident card for another year, if I can so you never know what may happen!

Why do we feel depressed today? - Friday, January 20, 2017

Friday, January 20, 2017

When we woke up this morning the sky was dark and it was cloudy☁☁☁. After our morning routines, it started to thunder and lightening, followed by rain and hail ☔☔☔.  We felt depressed 😟😟😟.....as we thought about it we realized our depression had nothing to do with the weather.  We were surprised and excited to see hail in Valencia.  We love it when the sky lights up and we are able to see lightening....these are not weather patterns we experience at home. 

Once we realized that today is Inauguration Day we understood why we were depressed.  Ever since November 8th we have been in a state of denial.  It has been impossible to explain to our Spanish friends how the person who shall not be named won.  

We tell everyone that we voted.  We explain that in California, 8,753,788 or 61.73% of the people voted for Hillary Clinton and only 4,483,810 or 31.62% for the other guy.  We go on to tell our friends that Hillary Clinton received 2.9 million more votes nationwide than him 65,844,954 (48.2%) to 62,979,879 (46.1%). But explaining the Electoral College is a bit more challenging.   

Even with all of these explanations they still asked HOW. When he talks, they think he says stupid things.  They read about what he has done to other people in his life, they wonder HOW could anyone vote for him.  We explained racism, abortion, climate change, immigration, equal rights, guns, etc. in the hope that they could comprehend WHY some people would vote for him.

I think many people in the world have respect for or looked up to or admired the United States (none of these are the right words).  But he who shall not be named stoked the fires of those who feel the changes of the times of the world have left them behind or left out. These changes are not ones they agree with.  And so it begins as of this writing there are 1,458 days, 7 hours, 51 minutes and 10 seconds left until we can get him out of office....that is unless, which many people believe, he will do something that will get him impeached!

Málaga and Madrid (Part 2 Jan. 11 to 15) - Trip is from Sunday, January 8th to Sunday, January 15th, 2017

Wednesday, January 11th
This morning, for one of the few times, we actually saw the sun rise over the Mediterranean Sea...it was 8:30am in Málaga and we were in a cab on our way to the airport for our flight to Madrid.

It was an easy flight, we arrived at 11:40am and checked into our hotel. After relaxing for a bit we choose to experience a typical Madrid meal called Cocido Madrileño.  The guide books all suggest La Bola, but the front desk manager at our hotel said that the hotel's managers all go to Taberna La Cruzada.....we were not disappointed. Cocido is a chickpea based soup that you put in other types of meat, chicken and a few vegetables.  It was enough food that neither of us wanted nor needed dinner. 

After lunch we walked over and got into the Palacio Real de Madrid, the Royal Place for free as it is free to everyone for the last two hours.  It is the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family, but it is only used for state ceremonies.  King Felipe VI do not live here as they chose to live in the more modest Palacio de la Zarauela on the outskirts of Madrid.

"It is Europe's third greatest palace, after Versailles and Vienna's Schönbrunn.  It has arguably the most sumptuous original interior, packed with royal antiques"

"The Palace is the product of many kings over several centuries.  Philip II (1527-1598) made a wooden fortress on this site his governing center when he established Madrid as Spain's capital.  When that palace burned down, the current structure was built by King Philip V (1683-1746).  Today the palace has 2,800 rooms, tons of luxurious tapestries, a king's ransom of chandeliers, frescoes by Tiepolo, priceless porcelain, and bronze leaf decor covered in gold leaf" (is this what drump will do at the casa blanco?)  They also have a collection of 5 string Stradivarius instruments which must be worth tens of millions.

The Grand Stairs:
"Gazing up the imposing staircase, you can see that Spain's kings wanted to make a big first impressions" The staircase is filled with interesting artworks.  From the landing to the walls to the ceiling. They are all reminders of the power, influence and grandeur of the Spanish monarchy.  

The frescoes on the ceiling portrays "Religion Protected by Spain".  On the landing, there are two lions made by two different sculptors (Felipe de Castro and Robert Michel).  No photo's were allowed once we passed the grand staircase.  With so many rooms it is impossible to talk about them all.  This link has a number of other frescoes in the Royal Palace.

I also enjoyed the Royal Armory.

Excellent day of travel, food and experiencing the Royal Palace.

Thursday, January 12th
Today we decided to take our time and enjoy the Museo Nacional del Prado (Prado museum).  Again no photo's were allowed but we noted a few of our favorite works of art and some of the masterpieces we saw.  We focused on Spanish artists;

The Nobleman with his Hand on his Chest
The Three Graces
Jacob's Dream (I liked this one)
Las Meninas (we both found this one fascinating)
The Immaculate Conception (Is she making a heart with her hands)
The 3rd of May 1808 (this one is impactful)
The Naked Maja by Goya (the next painting was with clothes)
The Family of Carlos IV by Goya (mocking the royal family)
Saturn devouring his Child by Goya (Black painting period)
The Mancorbo Canal in the Picos of Europa
And The Still Say Fish are Expensive by Sorolla 
Boys on the Beach by Sorolla ( he is our favorite Valencian artist)
Christ carrying the Cross (El Greco's images are to elongated)
The Holy Trinity (El Greco)
The Adoration of Shepard (El Greco)
The Surrender of Breda
Queen Isabella dictating her Last Will and Testament

We also saw the Exhibit of Clara Peeters

In the lobby I took this photo of the Defence of Zaragoza

We came across Casa Mira, founded in 1855...delicious sweets!

Beth spotted a rooftop bar above Puerta del Sol on the top of the El Corte Ingles....so we had a drink and enjoyed the sunset.

These are all photos of Puerta del Sol

Statue of Charles III in Puerta del Sol

Tonight we met Enrique and Teresa Steensma and their 3 children, Teresa, Maria and Juan.  We ate at the restaurant they own called El Apartment del No 5.  We met Maria when she lived in California with our niece Katherine.  Katherine has stayed with the Steensma in Madrid as part of an exchange program through Sacred Heart High School.  Lovely meal, wonderful family and so nice to be with Madrileño's.

Friday, January 13th
Today we started off with a breakfast of Churros with chocolate at San Gines Chocolatería, established in 1894.

From here we took the Metro and walked around the Salamanca area.  The barrio of Salamanca is Madrid's most exclusive quarter.  Like nowhere else in the capital, this is where stately mansions set back from the street share barrio space with designer boutiques from the big local and international fashionistas, just Beth's kind of place.

After enjoying this ares we ate at Lateral Castellana 42, we had a number of different pinchos and they were delicious.

We then walked over to visit the Sorolla Museum, our favorite Valencian artist! The building was originally Sorolla's house. The principle rooms continue to be furnished as they were during his life including his large and well lit studio, where the walls are filled with his canvasses, we loved it!

This is what it looks like inside

Where Sorolla worked

Some of the paintings we like

Some of the tile around his home

We capped the day off by going to Teatro Real, regarded as one of the most important cultural institutions in Spain along with the Museo Nacional del Prado and the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Renia Sofía.  It has quite an interesting history, opening in 1850 closing in 1925 and then reopening in 1997!

We saw El Cosario ballet de Ópera by Wiener Staatsballett's

An excellent Friday the 13th!

Saturday, January 14th
We started off the morning by visiting Mercado de San Miguel.  It is a cute little Mercado, we had breakfast here.

We then walked over to the Plaza Mayor.  This place has quite a history.  The square was originally planned by Felipe III, but was inaugurated in 1620 during Felipe III reign (his statue sits proud in the center of the square).  It has burned down three times. Over the years, the square has had many different names.  Located at the confluence of the paths towards Toledo and Atocha, it was originally the site of the "Plaza del Arrabal" market and thus took this name before later becoming the Plaza Mayor.  Since then it has been called the Plaza de la Constitucíon, Plaza Real and Plaza de la República before returning to the now famous Plaza Mayor named at the end of the Spanish Civil.  Public executions, crowning ceremonies, bullfights, Inquisition trials and diverse fiestas have all taken place here. 

We relaxed and enjoyed a beer and just people watched as we thought about the history of this plaza.

Felipe III Statue in Plaza Mayor

We then walked down Calle de las Huertas to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia.

Teatro Calderon

Some of the art we liked at the Reina Sofia

Joan Miro

A poster I liked from Valenica 1968

Our main focus in the Reina Sofia was to see the original Pablo Picasso - Guernica.   When we went to Pamplona for the RUnning of the Bulls in July we visited the town of Guernica and seeing this just reminds us of the importance of Peace vs War! 
For our last dinner in Madrid we wanted to try a taco place we heard about called Takos al Pastor.  I read that their is usually a line and a 15 minute wait and that was true this evening.  BUT it was well worth it 1 euro tacos ll outstanding and good tamales, the quesadilla's had a bit too much cheese but we so enjoyed having excellent tacos!

Sunday, January 15th
We walked over to see the Temple of Debod in the Parque del Oeste.  

Afterwards we went over the the Steensma apartment for drinks, and to chat again before we took the AVE train back to Valencia. They are such nice people, we really enjoyed our time with them.

BTW we left Madrid from the  famous Atohca train station.  You may remember this is the train station which was bombed on 11 March, 2004.


This is a Rick Steven's YouTube video on Madrid for anyone who may be going to Madrid.