For the first time we are taking a train trip in Spain. We are on the AVE (Alta Velocidad Española), the high speed train from Valencia to Sevilla. We depart from Valencia Joaquin Sorolla, stop in Cuenca Fernando Zobel, then Ciudad Real Central, Puertollano, Córdoba then arrive in Sevilla Santa Justa. We left at 8:00am and arrived at just past noon. It was a very easy and comfortable trip. The train reached 300 kph , about 186 mph.
We are traveling with Daniel, who I have mentioned numerous times in my previous blog posts, he is the one who planned this trip, and two other people - Blair from Canada and Aida from Kazakastan. We all stayed together in the Triana district, famed for its flamenco soul and its independent spirit, of Sevilla in a 3 bedroom AirBnB. It was nothing special, but in a great location. After dropping our bags we started walking towards the Cathedral and on our way we walked past the Real Maestranza Bullring, a bullring with over 240 years of history. While we did not go inside to take a tour, you can just feel the history.
Just outside was a statue of Curro Romero. His career was one of the longest in bullfighting. He retired at age 66, after 42 years in the profession.
Next we passed the Torre del Oro (Gold Tower) and Naval Museum. It is one of the most important landmarks in Sevilla and has been a major witness of the city's turbulent history. It was built in the 13th century during the Almohad dynasty as a military watchtower in the city walls, and was meant to control traffic on the Guadalquivir River and to defend the port of Sevilla from potential attacks.
Before we went to the Cathedral we decided to take a horse drawn carriage ride around town. We enjoyed it, with the exception of Blair who, once he was with us for a while, realized that he was allergic to horses and was starting to react. He got off and we agreed to meet at the Cathedral later. Our ride was about 45 minutes and we saw most of the places we eventually walked too, but it was a nice "touristic" start!
Sevilla Cathedral there is so much history and details about this place that I have created a couple of links if you are interested in more details, all I can say is that it is quite a place. UNESCO has it listed as a World Heritage site.
Within the Cathedral the things that had the most impact on me were the, largest alter piece ever made (Main Chapel, Capilla Mayor), at 36 meters (65 feet). This is a photo from my iPhone and then a short YouTube video.
Next I enjoyed the Tomb of Columbus. But interestingly enough Columbus is really NOT famous in Spain. Look at this list of famous people of Spain. The explorers you will see are Amerigo Vespucci, Vasco Núñez de Balboa, Juan Ponce de León, Hernando de Sato, Francisco Vázquez de Coronado, Francisco Pizarro NOT Christopher Columbus....interesting.
In any case the Tomb is incredible. His pallbearers represent the regions of Castile, Aragon, León, and Navarre (identified by their team shirts)
Lastly we saw the Treasury, we had to visit it so Beth could see what is now the world's 2nd largest pearl. The pearl is the torso of the Angel in the front of the Crown of the Virgen de los Reyes.
This Crown has 11,000 jewels and the shield, crown, gold roses and castle motifs are used to portray symbols of the Spanish royals.
Before exiting we walked up the Giralda Tower, 330 feet to have a wonderful city view.
While exiting the east side of the Cathedral onto the Patio de los Naranjos (Court of Oranges) when you look up you see a crocodile hanging from the ceiling. According to legend it came from the Nile during the 13th century, when an Egyptian Sultan sent and envoy laden with gifts to the kingdom of Alfonso X with the purpose of asking to wed the King's daughter Berenguela. AMount the gifts was a live crocodile and a domesticated giraffe.
The King declined the proposal but accepted the gifts. Apparently the giraffe and the crocodile lived on the Alcázar. When the crocodile died it was stuffed and hung int he Patio of Oranges. Over time the crocodile rotted away and was replaced with the wooden one in the cathedral today.
This is one of the most impressive Cathedral's I've ever seen!
It was starting to get dark so we went into a local hotel EME that has a terrace just across the street from the cathedral and had a drink.
This is Blair, Beth, Aida and Daniel
Daniel wanted to see the La Macarena or the Virgen of Hope of Macarena in the Basilica de la Macarena. In a closeup of her in the link above you can see she has tears running down her face. Macarena is also the traditional and historical name of the area of Sevilla located north of the city center.
Here is the original Macarena song that we all know!
From this basilica we went to dinner at restaurant of an old family friend of Daniel's, Bar Sacramento. While here Daniel bought a traditional drink called Leche de Pantera (Milk Panther). He bought extra bottles and we brought them back to our AirBnB and had a few drinks before we went on our next adventure out!
We first went to Casa Anselma, one of the best known bars of the Triana flamenco scene where Sevillanas is common. Anselma herself usually greets you at the door, but it was WAY to crowded when we showed up. Anselma greets you to make sure you order at least one drink because the performance is free but they need to be able to pay the musicians. This is NOT a tourist flamenco show or bar. It is local's drinking, singing and dancing...loving life. Even though it was packed I too loved the energy!
After Casa Anselma we tried a more "gypsy" flamenco bar called Los Martinez....it was much more funky and everyone was smoking so when we left we all smelled like smoke. Long day and into the late night but a lot of fun!
Sunday, November 20th
Daniel told us he was getting up early to go over to the Plaza de España. Aida and I said we would join him and Beth and Blair slept in.
We got up early walked across the bridge and had Curros at Los Especiales, they we fresh and hot along with the thick and delicious hot chocolate.
Since it was raining and early there were very few people. The Plaza de España was built in 1929 for the Ibero-American Exhibition (World's Fair). It has been used for some of the scenes of episode II of George Lucas' STAR WARS saga Attack of the Clones.
There are 48 alcoves each representing a Spanish province. I took photo's of the provinces I've visited in Spain.
The Plaza de España was simply impressive!
We then met Beth and Blair at the Inglesia del Salvador (Church of the Savior) AND a guide who took us around Sevilla and told us many things. We walked past the General Archive of the Indies, but did not go inside now as we are visiting the Royal Alcázar with the guide (we had hoped to make it back to the archive but never did).
The Royal Alcázar, was originally developed by Moorish Muslim kings. It is a Royal Palace that is renowned as one of the most beautiful in Spain and regarded as one of the outstanding examples of mudéjar architecture found on the Iberian Peninsula.
Salón de Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors)
"This was the King's throne room. Pedro (aka "the cruel" or "the Just") received guests and caroused in luxury. The room is a cube topped with a half-dome. In Islam the cube represents the earth, and the dome starry heavens. In Pedro's world, they symbolism proclaimed that he controlled heaven and earth"
There is Arabic writing on the walls, within this Christian palace, that say unapologetically Muslim sayings " None but Allah conquers" and "Happiness and prosperity are benefits of Allah, who nourishes all creatures"
Salón Gótico (Banquet Hall) and Salón Tapices (Hall of Tapestries)
Next we walked outside to the Mercury Pool, a reservoir fed by a 16th century aqueduct and which irrigated the palace's entire garden. Only elites had running water so the fountain was a extravagant show of power.
BTW for those of you who are Game of Thrones fans this was Season 5 "The Water Gardens of Dorne", aka the Alcazar of Seville
This leads to the Gardens, which in and of themselves are very impressive
Below are the Los Baños de Doña María de Padilla (Baths of Donna Maria de Padilla). They are, in reality, rainwater tanks. These tanks, named after the mistress of Peter I "the Cruel", are among the surviving parts from the 13th century expansions.
The Royal Alcázar was quite awe inspiring!
From here (after lunch) we split up - Aida, Blair, Beth and I went to the Palace of Las Dueñas. In 1248 the monastery was known as the Compañia de Dueñas (Company of Dueñas), the nuns who lived there served the queens and the wives of the king of Castilla, Saint Ferdinand and Alfonso X the Wise. The palace is one of the finest examples of nobiliary architecture in Seville, due to its historic and artistic value, and the importance of its contents.
Beth in deep thought, loving life!
We then all met at the Hotel Alfonso XIII, now managed by Starwood, to enjoy the lovely hotel, get a drink and take a rest.
We then headed to the Santa Cruz (The Jewish Quarter). There really isn't anything that is still here from when the Jews lived here. But walking through the narrow "kissing streets", with buildings built so close to each other you could almost kiss your neighbor across the street, I could just imagine what it was like for the Jews to have lived in this area. Separate from other parts of Seville and crowded. But then again they must have all been a very close family to help and support each other for what they had to go through.
I almost forgot to mention that most of today it has been raining. While we have rain coats and umbrellas our shoes are soaked and as we walk from the Jewish quarter towards where we will see our Flamenco show tonight we are all starting to get miserable.
Our last event was at the Casa de la Memoria. Quite a traditional flamenco show and a bit more touristic but still great to enjoy it here in the Andalusia region where it all started!
What an incredible start to this journey....tomorrow we take the bus to Granada!
