Saturday, May 7, 2016

Festividad Virgen de los Desamparados - Saturday, May 7

The festival is known as either Feast of the Virgen of the Helpless or Our Lady of the Homeless or Our Lady of the Forsaken.  As you can see from the translations, the event seems to take on many different meanings.  There is a long convoluted story about an old woman who was healed by 3 young male angels after being ignored by hooligans partying in Valencia.  This seemed to be proof of miracles and she became the patron Saint of Valencia.  Anyway, each year there is a festival the second weekend in May that in terms of pageantry, color, ceremony and local engagement rivals any Hindu, Buddhist or Pagan festival we've been to around the world.   

Saturday night, in the Plaza of the Virgen, at 23:00 (11:00pm) we were indoctrinated into Valenciano culture with the Festival.   We chose to pass on attending the masses earlier in the day but joined thousands of locals in the Plaza for a concert by the Banda Municipal de Valencia.  It was sprinkling but not a single band member budged ... such expensive instruments.. but the show must go on.  The Valencianos merely popped up their umbrellas.  

The band played typical Valencian music - somewhat waltz like. We met an older Valencian couple who exuded pride in the music and "explained what was happening" in Valenciano so it's possible that we've misinterpreted.  As the band struck the first note of the Hymm of Valencia, the crowd roared and then to our delight began to sing.  Their proud voices filled the Plaza echoing off the Basiclica, Cathedral and apartment buildings that surround the Plaza.  Both Howard and I were incredibly moved. Our full hearts affirmed the choice to spend a year in Valencia.  



That would have been enough (Dayenu).  But the night got only better - the music was followed by Fireworks at the River Park - about a  quarter of a mile away. (Beth loves fireworks).  Then back to the Plaza for folk dancing that started at 00:30 (12:30 am!) - hundreds of local Valencianos in their Fiesta finery (full brocade skirts, lace veils, baroque jewelry for the women, knicker pants, lace socks, silver buckle shoes, brocade vests and 4 pointed black hats for the men).  The Plaza was so crowded that we couldn't see much.  It's inspiring to see so many people out so late - including toddlers and many people we suspect were well over 80 years old.  What a night.


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