So for the second year in a row I am flying on Yom Kippur (last year it was from Heron Island to Sydney and I broke the fast on the plane with a free beer).
This year we departed in the morning and arrived around noon. We picked up our car from Firefly (NEVER rent a car from Firefly - the car itself was excellent but the rental location, the service or lack thereof is not worth the savings). In any case after getting the car we drove straight into Bari, which is the airport we landed at.
We were all hungry, including me even thought I could not eat, so the first bar/restaurant we saw we (they) ate at. Not the best start to our Italian eating experience but at least they were no longer hungry. The city of Bari is the second most important economic center of mainland Southern Italy after Naples, and is well known as a port and university city, as well as the city of Saint Nicholas.
The old city center is charming, complete with flower boxes sporting plastic flowers, pasta drying in screened boxes sitting in the streets and people darting from house to house and yelling down the alleyway for family (like a Prince spaghetti ad from Boston in the 70s). It was fun to lose ourselves in the meandering alleyways.
Since I am the chauffeur for this trip I get to make the driving decisions. I did not want to drive in the dark so after our walk around Bari we decided to drive to our AirBnB in Fasano.
We gained one hour going to Italy so the sun set at 6:14 and I got to drink water, to break the fast on the way to our home. We met our contact and made it to our home Masseria Ulivi for the next four nights just before darkness.
In the morning before we left for Alberobello we took a few photo's of our AirBnB, complete with authentic Trulli structures. Beth had wanted to see (let alone stay in) Trullis for years.
We also loved the Olive trees near our home. We were gaga for these ancient trees all over this part of Puglia. And check out the beautiful circles around the bottom of the trees. We think it was from the nets used to collect fallen olives - but given our limited language skills, we weren't certain of anything we heard.
Thursday, October 13th
Today we drove to Alberobello, which means "Beautiful tree" specifically to see the Trulli's.
On the way Michael met one of his fellow countrymen!
The Trulli of Alberobello have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996.
"A trullo (plural trulli) is a traditional Apulian dry stone hut with a conical roof. Trulli were generally constructed as temporary field shelters and storehouses or as permanent dwellings for small proprietors or agricultural laborers."
Apparently, the nobleman who ruled over Apulia taxed permanent homes in the towns. The dry stone wall constructed homes could be dismantled quickly. In fact, rumor has it that there is a cornerstone for each roof. If removed, the entire roof purportedly tumbles in ruin - leaving an open structure not a permanent house - ergo - no taxes.
We loved walking around the town and seeing all of the Trulli's. You will see different images painted on the roofs, here is one image showing what they mean.
From here we drove to a town very close by called Locorotondo "round place". What a cute little town. Here too we loved simply walking around town. Laura bought one of white wines they are known for and it was delicious!
When Michael and I were walking back to our car in Alberobello there was a group of Israel's with a tour guide. I heard them speaking Hebrew and I mentioned it to Michael. A person overheard me and confirmed that indeed they were all from Israel.
Well when we were in Locorotondo we saw the same group from Israel. The guide was talk about this War Memorial Statue. From what I understood many Jews who were forced to leave Spain or convert or get killed, immigrated to Italy. He was pointing out some of the names Jews had changed to, many were trees like Pine, or Oak, etc
Some other photo's I like of this town.
Tonight we went into town bought a oven roaster chicken and ate in Michael's space of the AirBnB as he had the "kitchen"
Friday, October 14th
At breakfast we discussed possibly going to see Matera. But from what we were reading we thought it might have to many steps and to many hills to enjoy the day with Michael. So instead we drove to the Adriatic Sea and kicked around.
First we went to the seaside small town of Savelletri. It is quite pretty, but at this time of the year we were almost the only people in town.
The cute little harbor
From here we drove to the next seaside town Torre Canne, another nice town on the sea, but again hardly anyone around. Except a number of old folks walking around. We spoke with a few of them and found out that they are all part of a group called The Ramblers, based out of the UK. They all walk together. In any case they told us Matera would be walkable for Michael so after our short visit here we hit the road to Matera.
I did love these two pieces of street art at the sea
It was about a 2 hour drive from Torre Canne to Matera. We arrived in time to have a late lunch before our guided tour.
Matera, as this link says is "one of the most interesting, unusual and memorable tourist destinations in Italy. In the remote southern region of Basilicata (also called Lucania), still little-visited by foreign travelers, is a town famous for its extensive cave-dwelling districts, the sassi. It's been continuously inhabited for over 40,000 years. Incredible. it was all a bit spooky and compelling.
We met our guide Alessio Leardi, and he took us on a easy walking guide around the city. Words nor photo's can describe this UNESCO designated city. All of us felt that it was one of, if not THE most unique places we had ever visited.
This link is to an article in the Smithsonian that tells how Matera went from an ancient civilization to a slum to a hidden gem! It's worth the read. And if it looks familiar to you maybe you saw it in the movies as it "has been chosen to double for ancient Jerusalem in films including Pier Pablo Pasolini's The Gospel According to St. Matthew and Mel Gibson's The Passion of Christ"
It was interesting to hear our guide talk about the two sides of the fascist coin. On the one hand Musolini helped improve living conditions with infrastructure improvements - flip side - was oppressive ruling with an iron fist and caring only for his own glory.
So glad we took this 4 hour detour.
Saturday, October 15
I wanted to not drive to far today as yesterday was a long day of driving and tomorrow will be as we head to San Giovanni Rotondo.
I read an article listing the 100 most unique restaurants in the world and the Grotta Palazzese was on this list and in this town. We chose not to spend the crazy amount of money for the prix fixed huge meal but it did look pretty cool.
Next we ventured north of town a bit to find wonder #8 in our guide book. It was the place Michael picked out that he wanted to see. It looked like a glorious sea side palace that we imagined would be the cornerstone of a charming village. It was cool but a bit of a let down - a small fishing cove and a less than spectacular palace (monastery). A cute place none the less. We all marveled at how great photography can compel us to visit.
Also in San Vito
Of course they had to have a boat named San Francisco, I'm just surprised that it's not painted orange and black!
On the drive home Beth HAD to stop in Monopoli! This one doesn't have Boardwalk or Park Place!
Sunday, October 16
The drive to San Giovanni Rotondo begins.....but on the way we visited the Castle of the Mount.
It is a pretty cool Castle in what seems like the middle of nowhere. (it is now in the middle of a national park) It was built as a resting spot between Sicily and Germany for Frederick II. Like him, it was our halfway spot on the way from Fasano to San Giovanni Rotondo. "The octagonal plan is unusual in castle design. Frederick II may have been inspired to build to this shape by either the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, which he had seen during the Sixth Crusade, or by the Palace Chapel of Aachen Cathedral.
After our visit we were able to make it to San Giovanni Rontondo before dark to check into our hotel (Hotel Corona), from which they promptly moved us next door as they were full.
On to Family time. Both of Michael's parents are from San Giovanni Rontondo (SGR) in the middle of the Gargano Peninsula (the spur of Italy's heel). This was the first time Laura and Michael had been to SGR. We were greeted by Michael's cousins, Elia and Maria Stelluto who joined us for dinner on the evening of our arrival. They were amazing tour guides and family guides during our whole stay in SGR.
Monday & Tuesday October 17 & 18
We spent these days with the Stelluto family. Maria and Elia could speak to us in Spanish and we understood a little. Elia and Maria could speak with Michael in Italian and he could understand a little. San Giovanni Rontondo has grown a lot since Beth and I were here 12 years ago. We Their is a HUGE Shrine to Padre Pio and therefore many people make pilgrimages here to see him.
Elia Stelluto was the "official photographer" of Padre Pio. Here is his most famous photograph of Padre Pio and his explanation.
The Shrine is quite beautiful both outside and inside! It's designed by Renzo Piano a world famous architect. We think that Beth might be related to him as her grandmother's maiden name is Piano - but who knows. He's from further north in Italy.
We thought this is an example of modern and mosaic done right. It's spectucular.
The Shrine has him displayed as you can see and they have his real hands, or to be more specific, what used to be his hands!
I haven't been able to figure out this image, of a Jew in jail. I've googled to look for an explanation but have found nothing.
Us in front of the "Home for the Relief of the Suffering" or hospital
Elia in his home with the bottle of wine he is about to open!
We had a great time, being with family and getting to know them. We met Daniel, Maria's middle son - and saw Ruben and Christina his wife (who we met 12 years ago) - and they speak English making things a bit easier for us. We enjoyed several meals together including lunch (or an all day meal) at their home. What feast of local delights.
Elia's photo studio
Elia, Antonio and Michael, with Beth, Maria and Laura (The Stelluto's). Michael with his Italian cousins and his American daughters.
Maria, Michael and Beth in front of a Padre Pio statue
Antonio and Michael loving life! They both look fabulous!
Maria was gracious to take us to the town hall in SGR to see if we could get official proof of birth for Michael's parents. It was a slog and took a couple of days but we now have them for Salvatore Stelluto - Michael's Dad and Filomena Piano, Michael's mother. They tried to give us paperwork for another Filomena Piano - born about 15 years before Michael's mother. Try explaining that not speaking the language. We had a good time recreating family trees.
Elia was nice enough to call a woman Rosetta Piano. She showed up at our hotel with her grandson. After chatting for a few minutes, it was pretty clear that she is the daughter of Michaels' mothers cousin (is that second cousin or cousin once removed?). When we looked at Michel and Rosetta, it was obvious they are related. There is a distinct family resemblance. She looks so much like Michael's Aunt Mary that is scary.
It was so exciting to be with extended family and deepen the Italian Roots!
Wednesday, October 19th
We fly home, to Valencia! It will be nice to relax a bit. A great trip but we all need a vacation from our vacation.
No comments:
Post a Comment