Friday, March 3, 2017

PART 2 - Road Trip to Cuenca, Segovia, Ávila and Toledo - Thursday, March 2nd to Monday, March 6th

Friday, March 3rd - Segovia
Today we drove directly to Segovia because the weather report was forecasting SNOW starting around noon or 1:00pm.  We were quite fortunate that it did not snow on our drive to Segovia.  As we drove there we went over the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range which already had snow on their peaks and always loom in the background of images of Segovia.  

This mountain range forms "the main eastern section of the Sistema Central, the system of mountain ranges along the center of the Iberian Peninsula.  It is located between the systems Sierra de Gredos in the province of Ávila (the next town we will visit), and the Sierra de Ayllón in the province of Guadalajara."

"The range runs southwest-northwest, extending from the province of Ávila in the southwest, through the Community of Mardir, to the province of Segovia in the northeast.  The range measures approximately 80 kilometers (50 miles) in length.  It highest peak is Peñalara, 2,428 meters (7, 966 feet) in elevation.

It looks a like our Sierra Nevada  but a lot smaller.  It would be wonderful to camp and hike in these mountains.

We checked into the Parador Segovia, using he second of my earned "free nights" dropped our bags and drove into Segovia.

Segovia is listed as a UNESCO's World Heritage site.  Segovia has always had a bit of legend rumored about it.  There are myths that the city was founded by Hercules or by the son of Noah.  It may also be listed because nowhere else in Spain has such a stunning monument to Roman grandeur (the soaring aqueduct) surviving in the heart of a vibrant modern city.  

Or maybe it has something to do with the fact that art really has imitated life Segovia style.  Walt Disney is said to have modeled Sleeping Beauty's castle, in Disneyland, on Segovia's Alacázar.  Whatever it is, the effect is stunning, a magical city of warm terracotta (when it's not snowing) and sandstone colors set within the rolling hills of Castilla, all with the backdrop of the incredible mountain range I described above.

Here are a few of our photo's of the aqueduct.






When we heard this accordion player, we both felt as though his songs sounded like my father.  We enjoyed listening to him for a few minutes!

We then went to have lunch to have the gastronomic miracle of Segovia......Cochinillo Asado - Roast Suckling Pig.  This meal is cooked in a special oven and the criteria for both pigs and restaurants are very strict.  For the pigs, they have to be kosher (just kidding) not heavier than 4-5 kilos (8 1/2 to 11 lbs), not older than three weeks, a special breed and a special menu for the feeding mother.  It's cooked with no spices, only water and salt.

Cochinillo is really very tender and tasty, which is different for the usual pork.  It melted in my mouth and the browned crust was perfectly crispy.  It is so tender they use plates, to "cut it up into pieces".The special tag attached to one of the legs certifies that this is the right pig.

We ate in a restaurant called José María, one of the one best known for their Cochinillo Asado.  I loved it and ate everything, except the ear.







When we left lunch it was SNOWING


We thought we might try to wait it out so we visited Pasteleria Limon y Menta for a little desert and coffee.  Segovia is known for their Ponche Segoviano.  I enjoyed it, however what we both really loved were the Crocantinos, why wouldn't anyone love them they are made of 70% nuts (almonds, pine nuts, etc.) sugar, glucose syrup, emulsifier, vegetable oil, whole milk powder and lecithin!

The snow let up a bit so we headed to the Centro Didáctico de la Judería in the former home of Abraham Seneor of Segovia.

This link gives a bit of the history of Jews in Segovia.  Here are a few photo's from the Center.


As you can see it was still snowing when we visited this center.



The red part of this map was the part of the city where the Jews lived.


This is a document that explains the obligation of Jews to wear a special element in their clothes to make them different

The first evidence of the Jewish presence in Segovia goes back to the year 1215.  During the 13th and 14th centuries, there were very few references to this community. In those times, the Jewish population was between 50 and 100 families.  Then at the beginning of the 15th centuries came the expropriation of their synagogue as a result of the events of Corpus Christi.

The Jewish population of Segovia lived during one of its most glorious moments under the protection of King Henry IV (1454-1474) .  During the reign of the Catholic Monarchs, the Jewish community in Segovia was among the largest and richest in the Kingdom.  However this prosperity was tarnished by their internal divisions and by the intense social and religious pressure they had to endure.  After the enactment of the expulsion decree in 1492, most Jews decided to go into exile.

It should be noted that some of the Jews were financiers and merchants.  They belonged to the court circles and extended their influence all over the kingdom.  Most worked as craftsmen whose market was the city and its surroundings.  Interesting it is noted that Jews did not work in agriculture or cattle raising.

We returned to our hotel just before dark to see all the snow, followed by the lights on the aqueduct and Segovia.





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