Out first trip out of the hotel on Sunday, October 18th was by taxi to the impressive
Red Fort. It was crowded with Indian tourists due to the
Diwali Holiday weekend. Amazing to think that this was built at the same time as Plymouth Plantation in the new world. Marble pavillions and inlay, swimming pools and intricately carved screens vs. sapling fences, thatched roofs and no decoration. Old world vs. new world.
The taxi driver told us there was no parking at the Red Fort gate. He wanted to park 2 to 3 kilometers away and have us take a rickshaw. When we said we would walk, he drove to the gate and pulled into a parking area and volunteered to wait for us. He warned us not to walk down
Chandi Chowk (just across the street from the Red Fort) as he said "there are very poor people and it is unsafe". However, we wanted to go to the Khari Baoli Market, known for it spices. As we began to walk we quickly noticed that we were the only non-Indians on the street. After about an eight of a mile it became clear the Chandi Chowk was a lot further then we though. Of course the 95 degree heat and humitiy help us to make the decision to turn back. That's when we encountered our first child beggar. He had a deformed arm and he kept taping my left arm asking for money. My heart was going out to him yet if were to give to him how about all the others? I so wanted to help......in the end we made our way back to the taxi. Exhausted and our hearts broken we hadthe taxi take us back to the hotel. The taxi decided to bring us to a shopping area. We told him not to stop.....just a normal day in Delhi.
I was timid our first day out… didn’t yet have a bearing on what the City was like. In fact, wondered why we’d come, hot, humid, crowded and dirty. Transformation by day two, when we coolly wandered through the Spice Market, hopping on and off local buses, riding rickshaws and taking pictures of locals.
A holiday atmosphere hung in the air, especially at India Gate -- a monument to fallen Indian and British soldiers during WWI –where families took photos, ate cotton candy and enjoyed the grassy mall. We didn’t quite have our sea legs yet so only have photos in our mind. Imagine a sea of women and girls in jewel toned saris and kohl lined eyes and men proudly carrying their babies.
Today: Hindu Disneyland… Akshardham Temple – a Hindu temple opened in 2005 covering 100 acres. It’s an amazing update to the ancient Hindu Temples we’ve seen in Indonesia. Thousands of life-sized elephant carvings line the base of the main temple (which was closed for maintenance). The Disneyland likeness… movies, animated dioramas telling the life stories of Swaminarayan and Yogi Neelkanth Varni, concession stands around every bend and bigger than life statues and families enjoying the wonder all around them. It seemed more secular than sacred to us but devotees pilgrim here from all over India.
On our drive to Arga today we got the see all the ways people travel in the National Highways (NH2) besides he usual cars buses, autorickshaws, pedi-rickshaws and bicyces there are tractors pulling everything, along with horse, cows and even camels all pulling something, it was a wonderful journey.
It sounds like you are in the grove. When we made the Agra drive, it was a two lane road and they were building another two lanes. How big is the road now?
ReplyDeleteAh, India. Even our driver who had been with us the entire trip sometimes didn't take us where we asked, but we loved him anyway. There is a balancing act of staying safe while also surrendering that must be found while traveling there. Remember these experiences make great stories and keep telling them to us.
ReplyDeleteOne thing I just remembered is that I bought some clothes in Agra, and was told by the shop keeper that the fabric was silk, it wasn't. If they say something is silk, insist they burn some threads. If it melts, it is not silk.
I am curious to hear more about the animated dioramas at Akshardham Temple and wonder how much video you will see in your travels in the country. Has it caught on there like China? Like the place needs any more life?
On a heavier note: I know the children beggars are heart breaking, but what I understand is that many of these children are mutilated on purpose because they can earn more that way. this is not just a myth. The only way to break this cycle is to not give anything to these mutilated beggars, children or adults. If you feel the need to give something, donate to an organization that works at ending this tragedy, rather than individual beggars. The good news is that what we found was that once we were away from the larger tourist sites beggars were less common, but there seems to be at least one beggar outside each temple, where people are expected to be in a more generous state of mind than otherwise.
Almost any travel is part excitement, part "whose idea was it to come here', and unfortunately often some heart breaking sights.
ReplyDeleteI so agree with Michele: many of these poor kids are purposely mutilated - don't fall for it however much your heart aches. In the end it doesn't help. I didn't realize this the first few days we were in India; I foolishly gave a beggar child a few rupees and within 2 seconds I was almost bowled over with tens of kids grabbing at me. Our cab driver had to come rescue me. He was the first one to tell me the mutilation story and since then I've often read about it.
Love your descriptions. Makes me feel as if I am there again. I found India to be utterly fascinating. I'm sure it has changed much in 25 years.
Photos?
Roads.. still nuts - Delhi to Agra - who could tell how many lanes - we think it was 1.75. Agra to Jaipur - like the US - by comparison.
ReplyDeleteWe've been warned regarding beggars. Hard to resist but knowing that we're suppoting SKS Foundation which provides for the poor helps.
Too true - fewer beggers away from tourist spots. Business as ususal despite our presence.
More photos coming now that we've mastered the technique - sort of.