Leaving Pushkar – Enter the Desert.

As we pulled out of Pushkar, we entered the desert for real. Pushkar was certainly sandy desert but was disguised by the thousands of people, cattle and camels staking claim of the sand dunes. The scenery reminded us a bit of the California deserts – think Mojave or Death Valley – though a bit greener.

We loved driving across the desert, with muted tans and greens of the landscape periodically interrupted by shocks of pinks, yellows and orange as women walked to and from villages wearing saris and carrying big loads atop their heads.

November December is wedding season in India. We saw processions that take place 1-2 weeks before the wedding in several villages. We’re still not clear on the meaning of these rituals but they are colorful and festive. The bride is the center veiled woman, predominantly in red.

On our way to Gajner, we detoured a few kilometers to visit our driver’s village and home. He is a poor man, earning about $100/month working for Star Holidays. He lives in Delhi most of the time, visiting home 1-2 times per month. We met his wife, youngest daughter and mother – along with every other person in the village who was within walking distance. They don’t get many foreign visitors! His wife made lunch for us. We sat in their only two chairs – Sayar, our driver sat on the bed and his wife served us lunch. She didn’t eat with us… it’s a strange custom but one we encountered in Bali as well. She made chapatti – from wheat grown on their farm, and ground in their own grinder, dahl, curd – from their buffalo’s milk, potatos and rice (more carbs). We finished lunch with a sweet of sugar, butter and some sort of starch.

I (Beth) am reading Michael Pollin’s “In Defense of Food” right now and his tenant is that we should all eat “real food” closer to it’s production. This meal brought that tenant to life in spades (pun intended).

Rat Temple - Karni Mata Temple

Western India, near Bikaner is the site of the Karni Mata Temple, a temple where a mother brought her son back to life as a rat. Indian’s believe that this entire extended family comes back to life as storytellers – and are thus sacred animals. This temple teems with rats who are fed sweets and grain. It’s auspicious to pilgrim to this temple with rats running to and fro. Yes, even Beth went in … with no shoes on, although not for long. I (Beth) couldn’t quite embrace the holiness of this place. It was one of the filthiest places we’ve visited in India. Yet throngs of people streamed in for prayer!